Monthly Archives: September 2012

Making marks in different ways

This project was about exploring the medium and a variety of techniques.

 

Exercise 1: Unusual brush marks

Task: Select a variety of household brushes, then paint tree shapes and clouds
Use smooth and rough paper and compare

First try: Blue tones

I used two sheets, first a smooth paper (left image), then a rough paper (right image). I find the marks on the rough paper more interesting than those on the smooth paper, but this may be also a result of how I handled the brushes.

The houshold brushes I found make much too irregular marks, and I found them not helpful for depicting clouds from memory. For this exercise, I would need some photographs or go outside and look at clouds, then try to depict what I see. I’m not very inventive otherwise. While the marks look quite interesting, there’s no resemblance with clouds. I think the difficulty is that one doesn’t paint clouds, but rather their background to make them come off white against the sky. I can’t do this from memory. Maybe because I haven’t paid attention to clouds for a while.

The experiment on the rough paper might eventually work as clouds if I protected the patterns with a resist and made a dark blue wash for the sky on top of it. And the marks I made resemble much more to water than to a sky. So my conclusion would be that unusual brush marks in blue might be very interesting for water, too. For sky, I don’t know. Maybe I can make a better judgement once I have tried to depict a real sky.

Maybe I should just do some mark making experiments without thinking about clouds, just to learn something more about the effects that are possible. Somehow the task of focusing on clouds was more a hindrance than helping to explore the tools.

I think the marks from unusual instruments will be more interesting for trees. For example, tree bark is very irregular and the overall shape of trees and their foliage is very irregular, too. So maybe the technique will be more successful with trees.

  

 

Second try: Green tones – for trees

I made another two sheets, the first on smooth and the second on rough paper.

  

Somehow this exercise didn’t work for me. Like clouds, I can’t paint trees from memory, but I do like the mark-making aspect of the task. The marks are very nice, and I would like to continue and explore how they look if applied in layers. I’m quite sure that the resulting patterns would be useful when painting a landscape.

I especially like the white which is left out from the marks I made. It creates beautiful and mysterious shapes. And strange again, the results of the experiment looks more interesting on rough paper than on smooth paper.

I might have done a third try in brown tones for the stems of trees, because my greens are rather for creating leaves and overall shapes. Rough, irregular marks in brown tones should be very nice for tree bark.

I was also thinking of doing a “tree project”, taking a walk outside and drawing interesting trees on my way. I might combine this with some watercolour experiments. Or take photos and experiment at home, this might be easier than carrying the watercolour equipment with me.

Reworking the trees

But instead of doing separate sheets for stems,  I reworked the two green sheets and added some brown irregular marks to represent tree stems. As I expected, the trees look quite artificial. I think I prefer painting after nature, rather than from memory. If the idea is to try out new marks, I’d rather have my mind free to experiment and watch, instead of mimicking objects. But maybe I’m just silly. I should have worked after photograph or gone outside to make the exercise interesting and rewarding for me, instead of completing the task in such a superficial way and complaining about uninteresting results.

Another try at clouds and trees

I did a Google image search for photos of clouds, trees and tree barks and used these as inspiration for another go at the expercise. I made two more sheeds with blue cloud-type marks. The first one (left image, soft paper) was just using some brush marks. The second one (right image, rough paper) was covered made with some unusual brush marks first and then I protected some areas using a guache resist. After everything had dried, I laid a dark blue wash on top and later washed off the gouache. The result were some white and lighter blue areas where the gouache had protected the ground

  

There is not enough contrast and colour intensity in these pictures, maybe this comes from using study watercolours rather than artist watercolours. If I were to do it again, I would apply the pigment more concentrated.

I also had another go for the trees, on rough paper. I reworked this painting several times, with many layers in different green tones, beginning in light yellow and getting more and more into darker green tones. I was surprised how many layers of watercolour were necessary to achieve at leas moderate saturation. I also noticed that patience was important: One layer with irregular marks had to dry first, before applying the next, because otherwise the new paint would destroy the structure of marks.

Overall, I like this second attempt where I had photographs as inspiration much better than the first. I also realized that I began looking at trees and clouds in the real world much more attentively, as if I was going to draw them. For example, I discovered that the white areas of clouds are where the sunlight shines on them, whereas the darker areas are those lying in shadow. I also looked at some trees. When I was driving the car but waiting at a red light, I observed some trees in back light from the sun which somehow seems to reverse the order of dark and light greens, like the light green leaves are in the background of the shape, while the dark green leaves are in the foreground, closer to the observer. I don’t think I would want to draw clouds or trees from memory, but I am quite interested in drawing or painting them outside, or after a photograph if not otherwise possible.

Exercise: Using various brushes

The task was to make irregular brush marks with various brushessa and then lift off the colour from half of the sheet of paper using some cloth or paper towel. The first two sheets were made on dry paper, the third on wet (damp) paper. On all sheets, the left half is the area where colour was lifted off.

First: simple thick painting brush (3 cm)
Second: toothbrush
Third: thin broad painting brush (5 cm)

 

Obervations: The pattern of the paper towel which is used to lift off the colour is printed into the wet paint in the respective area on the left half, this looks a bit strange. The paper towel created a dot pattern in a lighter tone than the dark violet which I used as premixed colour. By contrast, the areas where I didn’t employ the paper towel are quite homogeneous in tone and texture.

By contrast, on damp paper (third experiment), the paper towel lifted off almost all the colour pigment. Surprisingly, this time the unaffected right half of the sheet produces the more irregular and interesting result because of internal structure in the coloured marks.

Overall, I wasn’t overly comfortable with this technique. For me, the darker tones are precious because they need a lot of pigment. So the idea of first applying a lot of pigment and then taking it off again seems like a waste of material to me. Maybe I’d prefer to employ this technique to correct errors, rather than as an artistic technique.

Exercise: Other tools for watercolour

First task: Blotting and wiping

Observation: Removing colour with a dry sponge did not work, so I used a wet sponge and this produced quite impressive structures which indeed resembled clouds.

First sheet: seascape in blue tones, working in multiple layers

Two more sheets: Taking off wet paint with a scrunched up paper towel (dark purple tone)
In the second of these sheets (right image), I experimented with multiple layers to create depth and more intense colours. I employed a cleaning rug to lift off colour. It didn’t produce interesting marks when applied dry, but when wet it created structures that remind me of ice crystals.

  

 

Second task: Surfaces and textures

Three techniques are employed: Clingfilm, Salt crystals, and scarifying /scraping /texturing

Clingfilm: A4 sheet, dark purple tone. Put aside with a heavy book on top to let dry for several hours as recommended. Regarding next day: this looks impressive, reminds me of broken winter ice I often saw on the sidearms of the river Spree in Berlin.

Salt crystals: two A4 sheets, dark purple colour. First with French ‘Sel Marin’, consisting mainly of large grains. The second with a mixture of the rough salt and fine kitchen salt to experiment with the effects.
Observation: The salt seems to soak up the pigment, little white areas with a dark center are the result. They look like little daisy flowers on a meadow. The second sheet with the salt mixture looks more organic, maybe like a biological texture under the microscope.

  

Scarifying, scraping and texturing

First sheet (left side): sandpaper

  • Applied before paint: I used rough sandpaper and where it was applied, the colour sank deeply in and produced very dark tones.
  • Applied after paint: Recovers the white background, creates a torn-off effect
  • Overpainting again intensifies the dark marks. A very irregular effect. I think this would look nice in a landscape painting, for example to depict earth or fields at a distance.

Second sheet (right side): graphic cutter knife, hard pencil

  • Knife applied before paint: produced a similar effect to sandpaper, in that the colour sank deeply into the scratched marks. But the knife creates deeper and more linear marks, whereas the sandpaper marks are broader and lighter
  • Knife applied after colour: creates fine linear mark, doesn’t lift off the colour to show white background
  • Hard pencil: creates deep linear marks

Resist techniques

I have read this chapter while I was still working on project 2 (Laying washes), because I was curious what exactly was meant by the term. I found it very interesting and was looking forward to experimenting and trying out the exercises!

The principle of using a resist to protect areas of the paper from being coloured made me remember another technique which I had been introduced to as a child: Wax batik.

I really enjoyed this project and would have liked to continue with experimentation.

 

Wax

The task was to first use the resist directly on the paper, then use it on coloured background for three motives:  An object with a simple shape, a pattern or texture, and lines. I used quite rough paper in a 30×30 format, and transparent candle wax from a household candle which was quite difficult to see on the paper. It was helpful to sketch the shapes with a pencil and to look at the paper at an angle to the light, then one could detect the wax traces. I especially liked the effects of applying wax in different intensities, which resulted in different degrees  of protection for the underground colour. The exercise also gave some practice with controlling colour intensities, i.e. how much pigment is needed to achieve a certain intensity with the colour.

 

I repeated the exercise with oil pastels. These also works as a resist against watercolour, but the effect is quite different because oil pastels are opaque, not transparent like the wax. So rather than letting the background colour shine through, the resist areas will appear in the chosen oil pastel colour.

 

Masking fluid

I chose white rubber liquid for this task and decided to incorporate both effects of resist on white and resist on coloured background in each experiment. The first about plain areas is a small still life with mug and pitcher. The second is a pattern inspired by the idea of a meadow, and the third about lines was inspired by cobwebs.

I like working with masking fluid. It is a bit difficult to see on a white background, but a pencil sketch and looking at an angle to the light does help. It is transparent and protects the background colour. Interesting effects can be created when the brush becomes a bit dry and the resist contours become broken, as in the pattern experiment. For the fine lines of the cobwebs I used a dispensing bottle with a fine tip, which works well but needs some practice because the amount of liquid pouring out is not always easy to control. I’m not sure whether the line experiment would have worked with a fine brush.

  

  

Gouache and Gum Arabic

Finally I experimented with gouache and gum arabic as resists. For the gouache, I used white colour and applied it with a brush. I created linear patterns inspired by Madras cloth with its light colours and woven transparency effects. The first gouache experiment was done with a single washing off which revealed the final pattern. The difference between the final painting and the painting before washing off was quite striking!

  

Then I tried out gum arabic. While I found the process quite interesting and liked the painting before washing off, I found the final work disappointing, because there was almost no colour left on the sheet. I don’t know what went wrong. Maybe it’s a problem that gum arabic is the medium with which watercolour is kept on the paper and so the resist is washed off to the same degree as any watercolour pigment. If I were to use gum arabic as a resist in the future, I would certainly do some research how it can be applied more successfully. Or maybe my pattern was just too complicated and the gum arabic resist would have worked better with simpler shapes.

  

 

I did another gouache resist experiment, because in the first I had lost the blue colour due to transparency effects with yellow. I wanted to try out an intermediate wash off and preserve both yellow and blue tones, in adddition to mixed colours from transparency effects. I like the result and think the gouache technique works quite well. But maybe if I want to obtain clean transparency effect without washing out, it might be more effective to use rubber liquid for these Madras patterns.

The images show the stages of this painting: (1) before the first washing off; (2) after the first washing off; (3) before the second washing off; and (4) final as after the second washing off.

  

  

Laying washes

This project is about laying washes, i.e. applying layers of paint rather than painting pictorial details.

What to learn
–    how to work with wet and dry paper
–    how the colour dries
–    how much paint to load the brush with

Exercise: Plain washes

The task was to create a uniform wash on an A3 sheet of watercolour paper, using a large soft brush loaded with plenty of paint. I chose a dark brown colour, burnt umber, and tried to mix a medium intense tone. The wash worked quite well although it was lighter than I expected. It also takes some time to get a feeling for the amount of paint needed to cover a larger area.

The second part of this exercise was to paint a simple shape after the sheet has dried, and during the waiting time I proceeded to the next exercise.

I painted a clay pitcher as a simple shape. It’s original colour is a deep blue, but somehow I felt more like trying out a different colour and mixed a violet tone from Alizarin Crimson and one of the blue tones, unfortunately I did not make a note and I’m not sure whether it was Ultramarine or Phtalo blue.

Assessing the pictorial possibilities of a shape on a coloured ground

Painting this shape was more or less my first experience with using watercolour to paint an object, and I like it. It felt very natural to create deeper tones by layering the colour, for example with the pitcher handle. Other parts of the shape were less successful, this was where the additional layer bleeded into the existing colour, as on the left area of the shape. Probably with practice one gets more feeling for how long to wait until a new layer can be applied.

Painting the shape over the coloured ground seems to create an inner connection between background and form  through the subtle mixing of tones. Had I spared out the shape, the two elements of the painting would look much less connected and the colour contrast would be stronger. So I think this technique is a way of creating cohesion between the elements of a painting.

On the other hand, the technique is not always applicable, for example when the colours of the background are too dark for overpainting, or when the background is in mixed colours and this mix would disturb the colour impression of the object if it was drawn over the background.

 

Exercise: Tonally graded washes

The task was to create a wash on an A3 sheet of paper which gradually fades from top to bottom, by adding more water each time the brush needs loading. I stayed with the burnt umber from the previous exercise to use up the paint I had already mixed, but added some more pigment to have a more intense tone to begin with.

Creating the fading tone was quite difficult and I wasn’t satisfied with the first one because the colour stayed too dark rather than fade away. I made a second sheet on different paper but this time the fading set in too early and too abrupt so that the result was no gradual wash but more of a two-colour wash separated in the upper third of the sheet.

So I understand that this tasks is quite complicated and will need some more practice.

  

 

Exercise: Mixed-colour washes

The task was to create washes from two colours and a third by mixing these together. Each colour should occupy about 1/3 of the sheet. Then the exercise should be repeated, using a sponge instead of a brush.

I chose Phtalo Blue and Burnt Umber for this exercise, because I wasn’t very interested in mixing primary colours like red, blue or yellow. I thought mixing the blue and the brown might look a bit landscape-like, if I used blue (representing sky) on the top and brown (representing earth) on the bottom of the sheet. The mix of these colours became a muddy green which I found very natural, too.

For the first wash, I chose a portrait orientation because I thought this would give me a larger area to blend colours. For the second wash with the sponge I chose the landscape format.

  

 

Considering the results

I found the plain wash sheet very successful because it is really even and very subtle in its tone. By contrast, the tonally graded washes were much more difficult to do and I think my first attempts weren’t very successful. If I was to paint them as the background, I think I would build them up with more than one layer to achieve a satisfying gradation in tone.

The two mixed-colour washes are technically not very fine or subtle, but I find them nevertheless quite successful because I like the colours and the unexpected variety of tones resulting from my attempts to blend them subtly. I could imagine both of the sheets as interesting backgrounds for a watercolour painting.

I very much enjoyed working with a sponge. I used a natural sponge with a very pronounced texture. I used it with horizontal movements and this created a subtle stripe effect of changing tones which looks very interesting.

For the future, I think I would need some more technical practice with creating tonally graded washes in a single colour to learn how to achieve a satisfying gradation from dark to light tone. For the mixed-colour washes technical practice would certainly be beneficial too, but here chance effect have a lot of charm despite technical imperfections.

One thing to be careful about is the paper. It looks as though I worked to much on the first mixed-colour wash and caused some paper fibres to dissolve. This is less beautiful and I think especially as a beginner I will often feel that I need to work over areas to improve them. Choosing paper which resists some work would be more comfortable then.

More artists: Paul Cézanne

Inspired by an article on the We Are OCA website which presented a beautiful still life by Paul Cézanne, I took some more time to read about the artist. I new his name since a long time and had a superficial liking for the paintings I had seen, but never looked in any more detail or depth until now.

Paul Cézanne 1902 Apple, Bottle and Chair Back

The article is about the exhibition ‘Mantegna to Matisse’ at Courtauld Gallery, and author Jim points to its relevance for both students of drawing and watercolour. Indeed I was unsure to which of these two courses, which I’m now studying in parallel, I would associate my own Blog article. I chose the Watercolour Blog because I was attracted by a painting rather than a drawing. But probably this choice is arbitrary because I don’t know yet in what ways knowing more about Cézanne might influence my own development. I might review this aspect at a later time!

As usual, I began with a Google search about Paul Cézanne and found the German Wikipedia article about him very interesting and insightful. While I typically start with the English Wikipedia, this time I preferred to read the German article because it appeared to cover the artist’s life and work in greater depth. It is even marked with a Wikipedia star for article quality and might thus be still more informative than the French article.

Paul Cézanne (1839 – 1906), French painter, was born in Aix-en-Provence and lived in the south of France for most of his life, but he also lived in Paris for some time. He had been married to his long-standing painting model Marie-Hortense Fiquet and they had a son, but their marriage wasn’t happy – presumably because of Paul Cézannes difficult personality, illustrated by quotes from his closer friends several times in the Wikipedia article. But his influence on contemporary painters must have been enormous. The article mentions Pablo Picasso, Henri Matisse, Georges Braque and André Derain and reports relationship with many other artists. Cézanne’s work is now seen as the foundation of ‘Classical Modernism’. As the English Wikipedia article puts it:

Paul Cézanne (1839–1906) was a French artist and Post-Impressionist painter whose work laid the foundations of the transition from the 19th century conception of artistic endeavour to a new and radically different world of art in the 20th century. Cézanne can be said to form the bridge between late 19th century Impressionism and the early 20th century’s new line of artistic enquiry, Cubism. The line attributed to both Matisse and Picasso that Cézanne “is the father of us all” cannot be easily dismissed.

From the many paintings presented in the article I especially liked ‘The Card Players’ because of its beautiful colouring. The tones are beautifully shaded and very lively. For example, the brown table contains all brown tones from dark umber to yellow ochre, or the green jacket of one of the player has a multitude of different shades of green.

Paul Cézanne 1892-95 The Card Players

I also very much like one of his earlier works, ‘Snow Melting’, painted around 1870 in very dark colours (except for the snow), which seemed to have been typical for the painter’s early years. It was only from around the mid-1870s that he changed his colour choice to more brighter tones, reportedly influenced by his friend, painter Camille Pissaro.

Paul Cézanne ca. 1870 Snow melting

A search for Cézanne’s watercolour paintings brought up beautiful watercolour still life of fruit on a dish, mentioned in a Guardian article from January 2002. The original painting had long been confounded with a fake painting of excellent quality. The article reports that the original is now owned by the Ashmolean Museum of Art and Archeology, but unfortunately I could not locate it on their website, so found no further information about its title or date of painting for now. It was not included in their online collection of paintings, but I found information about a ‘Print Room’ at the museum presenting not only prints but also drawings, and it might be included there. I was just a little bit surprised that watercolour paintings are called ‘drawings’ which reminded me of the difficulty to distinguish between painting and drawing.

Paul Cézanne (undated) Still Life with Peaches and Figs

And indeed, the painting is included in the drawings collection… It is not dated. It was made with graphite and watercolour on white paper, its size is around 20 x 30 cm. It very much looks like a study for the very Cézanne-like still life oil paintings of fruit decorated on a table, but with watercolour it is much lighter, less massive in character than what I see in Cézannes oil paintings.

 

References

OCA article: Mantegna to Matisse, by Jim on 30 August 2012
http://www.weareoca.com/fine_art/mantegna-to-matisse/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=mantegna-to-matisse

Paul Cezanne, German Wikipedia article
http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paul_C%C3%A9zanne

English Wikipedia article
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paul_C%C3%A9zanne

The Guardian (16 January 2002) ‘The real thing. Cézanne that eluded Nazis goes on show’, retrieved 1 September 2012 from  http://www.guardian.co.uk/uk/2002/jan/16/maevkennedy

Ashmolean Museum of Art & Architecture, Paintings Collection
http://www.ashmolean.org/ash/objects/?mu=130

Ashmolean Museum of Art & Architecture, Cézanne in the Drawings Collection
http://www.ashmolean.org/php/makegall.php?db=wadrawings&view=llisti&all=&arti=cezanne&titl=&mat=&prov=&sour=&coll=&acno=&strt=1&s1=&s2=&s3=&dno=&what=Search

Mixing and applying watercolour

This first project is concerned with learning basic techniques with watercolour

 

Exercise: Loading the brush

Wednesday 29 August 2012

For this exercise, I chose the following materials
–    A3 watercolour paper, 220 and 250 g
–    Cotman Watercolours (Winsor & Newton) Box with 12 half pans
–    Round brushes, sizes 6 and 10

Colour chart: observations
–    Decision to first make a colour chart with the colours I have, before doing the exercise. Idea: Get to know my colours
–    There is no black in the colour selection! I wonder whether I’ll be ok without or should add black. Black is not among the suggested colours in the course materials
–    My box contains a nice selection of colours. There are two different tones of the base colours (blue, red, yellow, green), plus two brown tones, plus chinese white
–    I wonder whether I will ever need the white colour. Is it intended to correct errors by overpainting them with white? Or maybe for setting highlights onto a finished painting?

  

What have I learnt?
–    Impossible to make tiny dots when the brush is loaded with paint. The brush must be dried first, loaded with few paint.
–    Tiny patches are best made when there’s only very few paint on the brush
–    With intermediate amounts of paint, small and larger patches can be made
–    If there’s too much paint on the paper, this can be soaked up with a dry brush.

Conclusion: The amount of paint on the brush has to be adapted to what one wants to paint. This might be difficult when one is in a flow, but hopefully gets easier with practice.

 

Mark making

I used the remainder of the colour I prepared for the brush loading exercise to try out some mark making on an A3 sheet of watercolour paper. I really like the transparency effect of painting layers on top of the other!

 

Exercise: Fading tones

Friday 31 August 2012

The task was to make marks on a sheet of watercolour paper which fade out from a high intensity to a low intensity tone. I worked two evenings on this exercise, and I think I could spend much more time. It’s really interesting to look at the transparency effects resulting from applying layers of watercolour.

I painted two sheets, the first one in brown (burnt umber) and the second in green (sap green).

  

When the paint dries, tones seem to get a little lighter, so the transparency effects can be better assessed after drying. As the brush got dryer while I was making marks with the loaded paint, the marks got fainter. For smooth gradations of marks it makes a difference where one makes the beginning mark with a freshly loaded brush – the beginning marks tend to be much more intense in colour.

I also noticed some minor progress controlling the fade, but this needs much more practice. It’s about how much water to add to the colour, when to add it, how much paint to add to the colour in the first place. Adding new water, for example when the reservoir of paint is drying out, is always risky because one typically is not able to mix the exact tone again. For more control, it would then be better to prepare enough paint before starting.

I also noticed that the effect of adding more water depends on the amount of paint which is there and the pigment concentration. For example, I started with not much paint in high concentration, and adding some drops of water had a strong dilutive effect. But with a more diluted paint, more and more water must be added to make the tone visibly lighter.

And then there’s a sort of natural fainting of the tone from the beginning to the ending marks with a loaded brush. With highly concentrated colour, the marks quickly became “broken” and let the paper shine through. With more diluted paint, this happened much later.

More tonal variation can be achieved by layering watercolour marks. The layers increase the intensity of colours, both for those marks that are already intensely coloured and for those which are only faint.

 

Exercise: Random marks

Saturday, 1 September 2012

The task was to load the brush heavily with watercolour and then make random marks by flicking across the sheet, first with one colour and after everything had dried, with a second colour on top. Again after drying, the final step was to apply a faint but even wash of a third colour, using a large brush.

I chose Viridian green for the first, Phtalo blue for the second random marks layer, and Alizarin Crimson red for the washed layer.

I noticed that making the random marks in a single go resulted in erratic shapes of marks with quite even colour intensity and occasional dry-brush effects. Transparency effects resulted mainly from applying the second and third colour, with changes in tone where colour areas overlapped. Applying the red layer over the blue and green marks dampened the overall colourfulness by taking away the white paper background and changing the hues. But this effect was certainly due to my choice of colour. I imagine that a yellow layer might even have intensified the colours, although it would still have reduced contrasts by taking away the white.

 

Second sheet: experimentation

I made a second sheet repeating the earlier ‘fading tones’ exercise, but this time with the three colours I had used for the ‘random marks’ exercise. I wanted to try out the effect of applying transparent layers in varying colour intensities. I like the result, the fading marks create a kind of dynamic movement or depth in the painting. The transparency effect become more and more beautiful with every layer applied. Maybe it’s an art to know when to stop, leaving enough white background to maintain the light and colourful overall impression of a painting.

 

Exercise: Fish and Leaves

The first task was to paint stylized blue fish on one half and stylized green leaves on the other half of an A3 sheet. The second task was to choose either fish or leaves and paint the stylized forms over an entire A3 sheet. After drying, the sheet should be put under the tap to wash out the colour. After drying again, one half of the sheet was to be covered with a layer of a faint second colour. That dried, some more of the chosen stylized shape should be painted over the entire sheet.

I found my stylized leaf form less successful than the fish, but I chose the leaves for the second task because I thought it might be interesting to explore how layers of leaves would look like. I thought about having a blue sky background and therefore painted the layer of the second colour on the upper half of the sheet, rather than separating the sheet vertically as in the course example.

  

 

Considering the results

Did accidental effects help you in any way at any stage?
Yes, I think the exact shapes of my fish and leaves are accidental effects, and also the different intensities of colour. This created a nice dynamic effect in the shapes, because no two were alike, and also their distances varied randomly.

How would you describe the effects of washing off?
Washing off lets the colour become more faint. I can imagine that this would be like a distance effect in a painting.

What did the wash layer add to your picture?
Having done the layer to cover the upper half of the sheet, it somehow created structure and depth, like a horizon above which the blue sky extends. It also added more variety in tonal shadings, because it mixed with the green leaves. The blue layer also dampened luminosity of that area of the painting.